my drawing was too large, so I couldnât upload it.
But hereâs another one that will also be used for the next lesson, âthe magic of hatching.â
đ
I hope this was the kind of work that was expected. I thought that to enhance the drawing, it would be better to use different types of pencils, such as 2B or others, which would allow for a much wider range of shades. I think that with a felt-tip pen, for example, you can hardly achieve more than 4 or 5 different tones.
I suggest starting with simple and limited tools, so you can focus on the technique and not on different materials.
That being said, itâs absolutely true: some pencils are much better than others for capturing certain shades and values (in the light or dark areas).
Personally, I use 2B leads in my mechanical pencils. This allows me to create very dark lines when needed!
While listening to this course on values, a few questions came to mind... (by the way, I kept thinking about the phrase from Perceval's game, "what matters is the values" đ)
These are definitely very basic questions from a beginner, and the answer can probably be found through practice, and more practice, and even more practice, but...
- Do we use the same type of pencil lead to create the shades of gray?
- Can we use different types of pencil leads, ranging from 9B to 9H, to create the shades of gray?
- Does the range of shades of gray vary significantly depending on the type of paper we choose?
- Once we've chosen a paper, how do we know which type of pencil lead is best suited for achieving the best possible final result?
- You can do everything with the same pencil, or you can work with different tools. There are no rules! As for me, I like to have a 0.5mm 2B mechanical pencil for lines (line values, plus a few light shades of gray, or small hatching), and a 2mm 2B mechanical pencil for⊠everything else. I can pretty much do whatever I want with that! But I know some artists who have 5 or 6 pencils on hand at all times. That being said, honestly, going higher than H or maybe 2H won't be of much use to you (other than making holes in your paper), unless you're doing technical drawing. Similarly, going lower than 4B or even 6B won't make a huge difference. Now, as you rightly noted... it's a matter of practice and personal preference!
- The rendering of the grays can vary depending on the paper you choose. A simple example: on textured paper, you will have more variation between the areas covered by your pencil, so you will have to press much harder to get very dark shades.
As for which lead is best suited for what you want to do... that's purely a matter of experience! :-) As I said earlier, I do everything with 2B, because with that I can get both light grays and very dark shades. But maybe your thing will be 2H or 6B? You have to try it!
Hereâs a drawing I just finished â a path in a forest where I tried to create contrast by placing the trees in the foreground and lightening the background.
Please let me know if you like it. Working with contrast is more interesting...
I see that youâve put in the effort to clarify the values based on distance. But youâve only done this work on objects that are above ground, not⊠on the ground itself! đ
Even if everything were covered in snow, you would still see the difference.
For now, it works, but adding extra information at this level will help take your drawing to the next level.
The character surrounded by white represents the area of maximum contrast; it is framed by the door, and the lines of perspective lead towards it... Itâs a bit straightforward, but you canât fault its effectiveness đ
amendment: after reviewing my drawing, I realized that I hadnât emphasized the lines and shading of the houses and rocks in the foreground enough. I tried to correct it, but Iâm not sure if itâs enough.
I tried to rework a drawing from the course on staging and combine it with highlighting techniques. I have mixed feelings about the result â Iâm both pleased and frustrated because itâs not quite what I was hoping for. (And I didnât really focus on the architecture of the house and the bridge, so letâs not even talk about that.) Iâm looking forward to your feedback.
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13/11/2018
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19/11/2018
You forgot to post the image! :-p
T'as oublié de poster l'image ! :-p
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19/11/2018
my drawing was too large, so I couldnât upload it.
But hereâs another one that will also be used for the next lesson, âthe magic of hatching.â
đ
mon dessin est trop lourd je ne suis pas arrivé a le poster ,
mais en voilà un autre qui servira également pour le cours suivant "la magie des hachures"
đ
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29/11/2018
It looks great, both in terms of composition, readability, and contrast :-)
Ăa marche bien, autant en termes de compo, de lisibilitĂ© et de contrastes :-)
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06/01/2019
Thank you for your feedback.
Merci pour le retour
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07/01/2019
This works well.
I suggest starting with simple and limited tools, so you can focus on the technique and not on different materials.
That being said, itâs absolutely true: some pencils are much better than others for capturing certain shades and values (in the light or dark areas).
Personally, I use 2B leads in my mechanical pencils. This allows me to create very dark lines when needed!
Cela fonctionne bien.
Je suggÚre de faire cela avec des outils simples et limités dans un premier temps, histoire de se focaliser sur la technique, et pas des matos différents.
Ceci étant dit, c'est tout à fait vrai : certains crayons vont beaucoup mieux que d'autres pour aller chercher certaines nuances et valeurs (dans les clairs ou les foncés).
Pour ma part, j'utilise des mines 2B dans mes porte-mines. Pour avoir des traits bien sombres si besoin !
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09/04/2019
While listening to this course on values, a few questions came to mind... (by the way, I kept thinking about the phrase from Perceval's game, "what matters is the values" đ)
These are definitely very basic questions from a beginner, and the answer can probably be found through practice, and more practice, and even more practice, but...
- Do we use the same type of pencil lead to create the shades of gray?
- Can we use different types of pencil leads, ranging from 9B to 9H, to create the shades of gray?
- Does the range of shades of gray vary significantly depending on the type of paper we choose?
- Once we've chosen a paper, how do we know which type of pencil lead is best suited for achieving the best possible final result?
Thank you.
Quelques questions me sont venues en Ă©coutant ce cours sur les valeurs... (entre parenthĂšses, j'ai eu plusieurs fois Ă l'esprit le jeu du contre-sirop de Perceval "ce qui compte c'est les valeurs" đ )
Ce sont assurĂ©ment des questions trĂšs bĂȘtes de nĂ©ophyte, la rĂ©ponse se trouvant forcĂ©ment dans la pratique et dans la pratique, voire dans la pratique, mais...
- est-ce qu'on Ă©talonne les gris avec la mĂȘme mine de crayon ?
- est-ce qu'on peut étalonner les gris avec différentes mines allant du 9B au 9 H ?
- l'échelle de gris varie-t-elle beaucoup selon le papier que l'on choisit ?
- quand on a choisi un papier, comment savoir quelle mine est la mieux adaptée pour un rendu final au top ?
Merci.
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16/04/2019
+1 point for the reference to Kaamelott ^^
To answer your questions:
- You can do everything with the same pencil, or you can work with different tools. There are no rules! As for me, I like to have a 0.5mm 2B mechanical pencil for lines (line values, plus a few light shades of gray, or small hatching), and a 2mm 2B mechanical pencil for⊠everything else. I can pretty much do whatever I want with that! But I know some artists who have 5 or 6 pencils on hand at all times. That being said, honestly, going higher than H or maybe 2H won't be of much use to you (other than making holes in your paper), unless you're doing technical drawing. Similarly, going lower than 4B or even 6B won't make a huge difference. Now, as you rightly noted... it's a matter of practice and personal preference!
- The rendering of the grays can vary depending on the paper you choose. A simple example: on textured paper, you will have more variation between the areas covered by your pencil, so you will have to press much harder to get very dark shades.
As for which lead is best suited for what you want to do... that's purely a matter of experience! :-) As I said earlier, I do everything with 2B, because with that I can get both light grays and very dark shades. But maybe your thing will be 2H or 6B? You have to try it!
Have fun! đ
+1 point pour la référence à Kaamelott ^^
Pour répondre à tes questions :
- Tu peux tout faire avec le mĂȘme crayon, ou tu peux travailler avec diffĂ©rents outils. Pas de rĂšgles ! En ce qui me concerne, j'aime avoir un porte mines 0,5mm 2B pour les traits (valeurs de traits, plus quelques niveaux de gris lĂ©gers, ou petites hachures), et un porte mines 2mm 2B pour... Tout le reste. J'arrive Ă faire Ă peu prĂšs tour ce que je veux avec ça ! Mais je connais des dessinateurs qui ont 5 ou 6 crayons sous la main en permanence. Cela dit, honnĂȘtement, monter plus haut que du H ou Ă©ventuellement 2H ne te servira pas Ă grand chose (Ă part trouer ta feuille) sauf si tu fais du dessin technique. MĂȘme chose, descendre plus bas que 4B voire 6B ne fera pas une Ă©norme diffĂ©rence. Maintenant, comme tu l'as bien notĂ©... Question de pratique, et de goĂ»ts !
- le rendu des gris peut varier suivant le papier que tu choisis. Exemple bĂȘte : sur du papier Ă grain, tu auras plus d'Ă©cart entre les zones couvertes par ton couo de crayon, donc il faudra que tu appuies beaucoup plus pour avoir des sombres trĂšs sombres.
Quant Ă savoir quelle mine est la plus adaptĂ©e pour ce que tu veux faire... Ăa, c'est uniquement une question d'expĂ©rience ! :-) comme je le disais plus haut, moi je fais tout au 2B, parce qu'avec ça j'arrive aussi bien Ă avoir des gris lĂ©gers, ou des sombres bien costauds. Mais peut-ĂȘtre que ton truc Ă toi, ce sera le 2H ou le 6B ? Il faut que tu essaies !
Amuse-toi bien ! đ
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16/04/2019
Hereâs a drawing I just finished â a path in a forest where I tried to create contrast by placing the trees in the foreground and lightening the background.
Please let me know if you like it. Working with contrast is more interesting...
See you soon,
Lauriana
VoilĂ , je viens de faire un dessin, un sentier dans une forĂȘt oĂč j'ai essayĂ© de faire des contrastes avec les arbres placĂ©s devant en Ă©claircissant plus loin.
Merci de me dire si cela convient. Le travail avec le contraste est plus intéressant à faire...
A bientĂŽt
Lauriana
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16/04/2019
I see that youâve put in the effort to clarify the values based on distance. But youâve only done this work on objects that are above ground, not⊠on the ground itself! đ
Even if everything were covered in snow, you would still see the difference.
For now, it works, but adding extra information at this level will help take your drawing to the next level.
Otherwise, keep up the good work!
đđ
je vois que tu as fait un effort pour Ă©claircir les valeurs en fonction de l'Ă©loignement. Mais tu as fait ce travail uniquement sur les objets qui sortent du sol et pas... Sur le sol lui mĂȘme ! đ
MĂȘme si tout Ă©tait recouvert de neige, on verrait la diffĂ©rence.
Dans l'immédiat, cela fonctionne, mais apporter une information supplémentaire à ce niveau permettra de faire passer ton dessin au cran supérieur.
Sinon, continue comme ça !
đđ
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17/04/2019
I'm back with a new drawing... I wanted to highlight the main character.
What do you think?
Lauriana
De retour avec un nouveau dessin... J'ai voulu mettre en valeur le personnage central.
Un avis ?
Lauriana
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29/04/2019
In terms of composition, it works well. đ
The character surrounded by white represents the area of maximum contrast; it is framed by the door, and the lines of perspective lead towards it... Itâs a bit straightforward, but you canât fault its effectiveness đ
En terme de compo, ça marche bien. đ
Le perso entourĂ© de blanc prĂ©sente la zone de contraste max, il est encadrĂ© par la porte, les lignes de fuite conduisent vers lui... C'est un peu bourrin, mais on ne peut pas te reprocher cette efficacitĂ© đ
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22/04/2019
Iâve chosen a photo from my trip to Norway where I thought the contrasts were interesting; I hope it meets the requirements.
j'ai choisi une photo de mon voyage en NorvĂšge oĂč les contrastes me semblaient intĂ©ressants : j'espĂšre que ça correspondra Ă ce qui est demandĂ©.
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23/04/2019
attached is my essay, and hereâs another great video for you to watch đ
ci joint mon essai, encore une vidĂ©o sympa Ă regarder đ
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29/04/2019
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23/04/2019
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24/04/2019
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29/04/2019
By the way, you have a nice sketching style. đ
And youâve done a good job of sticking to your grayscale. Well done!
Tu as un joli trait de croquis, au passage. đ
Et tu as bien respecté ton échelle de gris, bon boulot !
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04/05/2019
I tried to rework a drawing from the course on staging and combine it with highlighting techniques. I have mixed feelings about the result â Iâm both pleased and frustrated because itâs not quite what I was hoping for. (And I didnât really focus on the architecture of the house and the bridge, so letâs not even talk about that.) Iâm looking forward to your feedback.
j'ai tentĂ© de reprendre un dessin du cours sur la mise en scĂšne et melanger la mise en valeur avec ça, je suis mitigĂ© entre content et frustrĂ© du rĂ©sultat qui n'est pas comme je l'esperais ^^ (sans parler de l'architecture de la maison et du pont mais j'avoue ne pas m'ĂȘtre focalisĂ© la dessus). J'attends vos retours :)
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18/05/2019